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Mystery Diner - December
Category: General Published on Monday, 07 December 2009 13:04 Hits: 1074
Quan An Ngon
160 Pasteur, Q1
Time to burn and looking for somewhere to indulge in a lengthy lunch? Quan An Ngon may be just the spot for you. Recently moved from its Nam Khi Khoi Nghia address, no one seems to have had trouble finding it in its new locale on Pasteur St. However, there is no parking on the premises. So, if you’re travelling by motorbike, be prepared to visit the bai giu xe half a block up the road.
The airy courtyard is awash with hungry punters looking for assistance in finding a table amongst the hustle and the bustle. Today, at least, this is clearly the place to be.
You will have plenty of time to soak up the somewhat Moorish atmosphere in the central courtyard, replete with Alhambra pond while the maitre d’ embarks on a lengthy table-finding mission. The architects and interior designers have done a fine job, I can see why the staff may want to give you time to fully appreciate their work.
Sanitised Street Food
I have heard many people claim that Quan An Ngon, offering, as it does, a selection of somewhat sanitised “street food” from around the country, is aimed at tourists. There are, however, no more than a handful of imports keeping us company in the foyer, identifiable not least by the air of panic and desperation clinging to them as they, too, try to catch the eye of the elusive maitre d’ amidst the far more numerous press of Vietnamese would-be diners capitalising on their home-ground advantage.
The hard-working maitre d’ finally beckons us towards her – I can hardly believe our luck. I feel like Charlie when he scored the Golden Ticket. We cross the restaurant aglow with smug satisfaction through the piteous, braying crowd of which we were so recently a part.
Leaving nothing to chance we grab a passing waiter and hold her captive as we decide what to eat. The menu seems slightly different from the old one, but it’s been a while between visits, so my memory may well be faulty. Either way it is still chock full of dishes we know and love, and we are able to make our selection without too much delay.
Another gentle half hour drifts by and our appetites are well and truly whet. Our food arrives and, astonishingly, it is exactly what we ordered. How the kitchen and floor staff manage to control what must be a ticker-tape parade’s worth of dockets is little short of a miracle.
Sturdy interpretations of Vietnamese standards form the backbone of this restaurant’s enduring popularity, and they have not messed with the formula in the move. The chao tom (minced prawn & pork on sugar cane) is tender and fragrant, with just the right amount of sweetness. Nostalgic for the north, we’ve ordered bun cha, Hanoi’s signature dish. While it doesn’t exactly whisk me back to the foggy northern climes, it is still rather scrumptious. The banh xeo is big and crispy and a little too full of bean sprouts for me … but then again, I always think banh xeo is a little too full of bean sprouts.
An ideal place for a long business lunch or a hearty dinner, Quan An Ngon has certainly found favour with a wide swath of Saigon residents and visitors. The new premises are slick and polished, retaining an air of Indochine charm with a splash of southern Spain. The courtyard tables on the street front are clearly the choice of those who like to see and be seen and, on the occasion we visit, are peopled with punters dressed to impress. An easy way to while away a sunny Saigon afternoon. Booking highly recommended!
Our mystery diner is a chef with over 15 years experience in the industry.